jmbejdl said:
Add to that my memories of the place in the mid-90's when it was truly awful and you're all the way there. Back then it was dangerous as well as poor and dirty, the street children and packs of feral dogs were almost everywhere and the main station looked like it had just come through WWII, even down to the crippled beggars in military uniform. I don't think I've ever quite got over the shock of that place when confronted by it as a naive, 18 year old travelling alone. Maybe it's better now, but I'm not willing to risk it.
I was in Bucharest in the summer of 2000. Not bad at all, considering what it's been through (and in comparison to certain Eastern European capitals which shall remain nameless!). There were no more packs of feral dogs, at least during the day, and the gypsies weren't any worse than in other cities. I think the government has cleaned things up quite a bit since the mid-90s (during which time it was rather bad, based on all reports).
That said, the old Parisan charm of Bucharest is indeed hard to come by. Many areas of the city are little more than blocks of cement (which means things get VERY hot in the summer). You just have to have an expert guide. I went with a friend of mine who took me to all the great old neighborhoods (what's left of them), the elegant parks, the national museums (of which there are several excellent ones, including the national museum of Romanian architecture, which is absolutely astounding, beautiful and extremely interesting). There are also some very nice monasteries in different parts of the city. Of course, now that Elder Sofian has passed away, one can't visit him, but his monastery is still worth a visit. Also, there are a number of excellent parish priests in Bucharest, many of whom are very good preachers, and there are some nice student-led Orthodox movements. In general, I liked the Churches, since they were solidly Orthodox but also a bit more academically inclined (which only makes sense because of all of the students). Of course, it helped tremendously that we had a car. The public transit in the city is absolutely PACKED, and there is no shortage (of course) of young Romanian lovers swapping spit, despite the fact that they are literally pressed up against you (and several other people on all sides). That said, it's very interesting to be in a packed bus of "strangers," many of whom cross themselves in unison with you as the bus passes by a Church. Tells you something, no?
Nevertheless, Bucharest still can't even begin to compete with Moldovia and Bucovina.